Conceptualised and built in 1997 by renowned architect Gerard de Cunha, this little museum is situated in the village of Torda in the middle of the road and is colloquially referred to as ‘Gerard’s traffic island’; a nod to the building’s unusual geometrical structure and ship-like form. The Museum itself is an ode to the history of Goan architecture, especially the junction of Indian and Portuguese styles, and spans across three storeys, with a spiral staircase in the middle connecting them. The staircase in particular acts as the doorway to the displays, and plays a major role in the building’s architecture. The triangular structure acts as a natural deterrent to heat, while the balconies provide ample light and the west-facing facade allows ventilation.
The first storey depicts the history of Goa from 1300 BC onwards through a series of sketches by the celebrated cartoonist Mario Miranda, with an emphasis on the irrevocable influence that the arrival of the Portuguese had on the region’s architecture. The second storey contains elements from real Goan houses, including paintings, ornaments and even components from the buildings, including full railings and doorways on display. The third storey is an open, auditorium-like room, featuring more elements of a typical Goan home, like Portuguese balcoas and Tulsi Vrindavans, Goan hallways, wooden furniture and old paintings.
Mario Miranda’s work dots the entire museum, and is particularly appreciated by visitors, as is the authenticity of the curious oddities from Goan homes, such as wooden coat hangers that open out like umbrellas, a pair of wooden hands meant to act as picture frames, roosters meant to top the roofs of homes, and the juxtaposition of holy crosses and Hindu icons like the tulsi plant. Another item of interest is the machila (a hand-ported carriage seating two people face-to-face, often used in old Goan hotels).
The Museum houses a small cafeteria selling bottled water and packaged snacks, and holds architectural workshops on the third floor from time to time. It also has a souvenir shop selling art by Mario Miranda. The Museum is a stone’s throw from two schools also built by de Cunha, featuring eco-friendly construction techniques and architecture uniquely suited to children.